David Sedaris's take on fine dining

"I’ve never thought of myself as a particularly finicky eater, but it’s hard to be a good sport when each dish seems to include no fewer than a dozen ingredients, one of which I’m bound to dislike. I’d order the skirt steak with a medley of suffocated peaches, but I’m put off by the aspirin sauce. The sea scallops look good until I’m told they’re served in a broth of malt liquor and mummified litchi nuts. What I really want is a cigarette, and I’m always searching the menu in the hope that some courageous young chef has finally recognized tobacco as a vegetable. Bake it, steam it, grill it, or stuff it into littleneck clams, I just need something familiar that I can hold on to." -- David Sedaris from ME TALK PRETTY ONE DAY (and 1/2 of the Duo is hooked on all his utterly hilarious books with equally keenly wicked insights).

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East Side, West Side, All Around NYC

Gordon Ramsay at the LondonNYC Hotel
151 West 54th Street (between 6th and 7th Avenues)
New York NY 10019
(212) 468 8888

Gordon Ramsay, proprietor of many dining establishments worldwide, has bestowed two Michelin stars on America with the creation of his new, slick fine dining establishment in the equally tailored LondonNYC hotel.

Located on 54th street just a block and a half off upscale Fifth Avenue, this equally chic eatery was worth every bit of the trip from Los Angeles. Upon entering through a young and happening bar scene, we were whisked off to our table with all of the grace and style of the top-notch service that followed suit. The room was a simple rectangle, with only fourteen tables, but designed in such a pleasing fashion that we felt both private in our own dining experience, and yet part of the room’s energy as well. The walls are a series of stylized arcs made of a special breed of plastic that mimics that of mother of pearl. The lighting was simple, yet elegant, and the tables are neatly fitted with linens and accompanied by fine, yet unassuming china and cutlery.

After being seated, we were immediately greeted by a gentleman with a silver container full of various champagnes. We indulged in bellinis (a mix of champagne and peach puree or peach liquor), although the presentation of other champagnes was compelling. The menu selections were enticing and there was both a chef’s menu of many courses and an abbreviated chef’s menu, each that allowed you to experience the flavors without having to purge after you’ve finished. We were also told by the gracious and superbly trained waiter that the Chef would tailor any items that didn’t fit within our palate or liking; a nice touch for restaurants of this stature that at times tend to be too finicky for our tastes.

We started with a confit of foie gras with slow cooked free-range chicken, complete with a quail’s egg, which proved to be a wonderful combination. This was followed by baked fluke (very much like a flounder fish) and a superb venison with a hint of cocoa butter, something the Dining Duo has not tasted before. The venison dish was a outstanding blend of one of our favorite meats along with an unusual choice of spice. The cannon of lamb arrived perfectly cooked at our requested medium rare and although Scott is not a fan of olives, he devoured the olive crusted potatoes. We chose not to have the cheese course so we could sample all the desserts, which looked yum, but the cheese cart was elegant and enticing. The passion fruit in cream, laced with coconut and mint, was delicious. We also sampled the chocolate fondant with banana ice cream and a side of malted milk, which was whimsical and mouthwatering.

The service was superlative. Only the captains, and not runners, served us; a touch that we recognized and appreciated. There was no disturbing grand introductions of the food we had ordered, and no questioning who got what; just simple elegant service of the finest training. We ended our gorgeous evening with their suggestion of an apple tart tartin for two, baked upside down, and served with a dollop of vanilla ice cream. It was heavenly. Even though we’re chocolate folks, we were pleased we chose this one.

We asked for a tour of the kitchen, and were surprised to see an amazingly clean, large operation functioning like a fine, well-oiled machine. We met the chef de cuisine, Josh Emett (with his charming Kiwi accent) who could not have been nicer and we noticed a fabulous table for up to eight folks right in the kitchen. For $1,700 that table can be yours and up to seven friends. You can observe all the workings of the kitchen, and even have a hand in making one of your courses. Somehow dining in fine clothing and a chef’s smock adds to the experience, and we can’t wait to try this table on our next visit to the Big Apple.


The London NYC -- The New Address in New York City



Location, location, location. Hook a left out the front door and in just over a block, you’re walking on Fifth Avenue right in the heart of all the grand shops. Turn right out the door and in just a few blocks you’re in the theatre district, and a few more take you to Time Square. The Hotel is on the new side and still experiencing minor growing pains (such as counting more than fifty rings when calling the front desk on a few occasions), but for the most part it excels by New York high-end standards. All the rooms are suites, and although some don’t have the best views, the more expensive rooms, Vista Suites, do afford very nice city views.

The rooms are all about 500 square feet, which is huge by comparison to most other hotels. They are decorated in a tailored, yet minimal fashion. With an anteroom done in whites and pastel blues, there is a fashionable sofa (pretty, but unwelcomingly hard and uncomfortable), and a coffee table that swivels to the height of a dining table (be careful not to swivel it too fast as we did just that and managed to dump a box of Magnolia cupcakes on their pretty carpeting—frosting down, but shhh, don’t tell anyone). The bedroom is even more minimal. In fact there is no art anywhere in the suite, which struck us as too stark. The bed is extremely comfortable, the tailored fine linens high end, crisp and sporting a squashy down comforter with yielding down pillows. The windows are sealed nicely, keeping most of the New York soundscape out of the room.

The bathroom, designed by David Collins and Waterworks, has one of the largest showers we’ve seen, which, according to the bellhop, can hold 8 people (“12 if the people are from L.A. because they’re skinnier”); with two showerheads on each end for more fun. Oddly, there was no circulating fan in the bathroom, which made for unpleasant experience if you are sharing it, or just wanting to look at yourself in the mirror after a shower. There is a sign suggesting the promotion of “Green” hotel living by utilizing your towels more than once, but once you’ve wiped down the mirror several times after each shower with the towel, the concept of using it again on your body goes out of plan (and, by the way, at the prices of nearly $1,000 per day, do we really need to have a sign in the bathroom reminding us to be good global citizens?).

That said, between the tremendous location, the chic appearance, the size of the suites and the hip crowd, we’d give it another shot the next time we were in the Big Apple. And, we’ll be dining at Gordon Ramsay’s elegant creation without hesitation.

IT'S ALL ABOUT BOSTON*

*and we’re not talkin’ “Beans”

The Eliot Hotel Clio Restaurant370 Commonwealth Ave
Boston, MA 02215
(617) 267-1607

We have finally found our place in Boston; the Eliot Hotel is our new home away from home when traveling to Boston. It just so happens that it also houses the finest restaurant in this charismatic city, but more about that later.

The Eliot is right off Newbury Street next to the Harvard Club and offers seventy-nine beautifully and tastefully appointed suites. They are a perfect 450 square feet and although decorated traditionally, they are perfectly equipped with two plasma screens and luxurious baths. Make sure to request the front of the hotel, which affords the more scenic views (but can be slightly noisy); if the noise is a concern, the rear side of the hotel is quiet but you miss out on the charming city landscape. The staff is extremely helpful and courteous, rounding out the benefits from the “boutique” hotel experience.

One of the best parts about the Eliot is right off the lobby, the restaurant “Clio” and the fairly new “Uni Sashimi Bar” both headed by Chef Ken Oringer. And now we’re definitely not talking baked beans. The cuisine is superb and we opted for the 12 course-tasting menu which includes selections from both venues and considering the quantity and quality of food served, is bargain priced at $135. The menu varies every night and the nights we were there we were lucky to have experienced a menu with every course being a delight. The highlights include a Tomato Water Martini sans alcohol that was exceptionally light and included basil oil, caper berry and a tomato Popsicle. We also savored a two-hour egg with asparagus, ham foam and foraged mushrooms, which was a unique taste treat. We experienced exceptional service at the hands of our server Denise, who had recently moved from Los Angeles and had previously worked at Koi. The Coffee Truffle Mousse was a perfect ending to our evening. We were off to Maine after Boston and Sweet Butter Basted Maine Lobster with chantarelles was an excellent harbinger for our next few days.

Limoncello (617) 523-4480
190 North Street (North End), Boston

One should not leave Boston without experiencing the North End that is reminiscent of New York’s Little Italy (when there actually was a little Italy). The stand out was Maurizio Badolato’s Limoncello. Maurizio’s star rose when he won the lottery, which enabled him to open this homey restaurant. Don’t miss Maurizio’s mother’s balls, meatballs that is, and you’ll have to call a day or two in advance to request them for the ultimate home made treat. We highly recommend that you order the Rosette Al Montasio Ed Olio Di Tartufo ($20), which is a Rosette pasta with cheese, prosciutto and truffle oil. We would have to say that this ranks amongst the best pasta dishes we have ever tasted. The service was equally friendly and attentive. If you go to one Italian restaurant in Boston, it should be Limoncello.

ITALY--West Hollywood Style

MURANO
9010 Melrose Ave
West Hollywood, CA 90069
Phone: (310) 246-9118


Magnifico!

The legions of Café Figaro fans will be overwhelmed at the high drama and stunningly beautiful environs that now calls itself Murano, and with good cause. From the moment you enter the clean, white establishment, you’re immediately greeted by two magnificent Murano glass chandeliers, all in black and custom made for the space to incorporate one tier of nearly twenty arms. Flanked by two enormous mirrors on either end of the main room, there are thirty other gorgeous Murano chandeliers throughout the restaurant, many in vibrant reds and setting the owners back more than $250,000 all in the name of authenticity.

Robin Ganz and Sandy Sachs (of Girl Bar and Dinah Shore Week fame) have partnered with our old friend Jeffrey Sanker (of Palm Springs White Party fame) to create a significant and noteworthy addition to the restaurant scene. Beyond the expected backdrop of beautiful men and women, they combined their respective efforts to bring in Kristi Ritchey, formerly with the Patina Group, to jazz the menu with as much panache and fan fare as the remarkable chandeliers.

Going beyond the Philippe Starck look with bed sheet comfort, the beautiful hardwood floors immediately add warmth, as do the extremely comfortable soft, white leather seats that beckon you to spend some time and enjoy the food, as well as the surroundings. We were impressed with the table settings themselves, consisting of neat and aesthetically pleasing dishes, as well as cutlery with a distinctive flare. White tablecloths adorn the tables, and although the restaurant was filled with life and laughter, it was not noisy and obtrusive, allowing you to talk intimately to your partner across from you, or amongst a table of friends.

It’s always impressive to The Dining Duo when a new eatery brings together all of the right essentials and elements to burst onto the scene and all at once be the place at which to be, eat, and socialize; this is indeed that place. The food was delicious, and it simply is difficult to point out some of our favorites, as many of the choices were noteworthy. The panzella salad with tomatoes, fresh burrata cheese, polenta crisps, and olive vinaigrette was particularly interesting to the palate, and definitely something we’d recommend ($14). The appetizers were plentiful and interesting conglomerations of food elements as well. Staying with the Italian theme, Kristi creates a taste of Italy with bruschetta, olive tapinade, roasted red pepper mousse, eggplant caviar, oven-roasted tomatoes, baby artichokes, and fresh mozzarella served with crustini ($14). It was divine, and we felt as if we were walking down the streets of Venezia and into a fabulous Italian restaurant. Michael also enjoyed the prosciutto di Parma wrapped phyllo grissini with fig marmalade, a balsamic reduction, and micro arugula ($14), that was such an interesting combination of flavors that he simply couldn’t put it down. Scott had to take a nibble and agreed whole-heartedly.

With six different pasta variations, we found the best to be the sweet corn agnolotti, which came accompanied with crisp pancetta, a port wine reduction, and shaved Parmesan cheese ($17). Again, the extraordinary amalgamation of tastes was ethereal, and The Dining Duo devoured it amongst the assortment of fabulous chandeliers, fabulous interiors, and fabulous-looking people. As if the latter was not enough to satiate the senses, one of the many entrées will fill the bill. Although the Atlantic salmon was not wild, the dish was accompanied by sautéed white asparagus, cherry tomatoes, and shaved green asparagus salad ($23). The salmon was cooked properly with a slight medium-rare center, and the white asparagus was particularly fresh and tasty. On another visit, we enjoyed the seafood risotto with scallops, jumbo prawn, whitefish, and lobster reduction ($27), which had just the correct proportion of each to make it a grouping of tastes without losing each individual flavor of the particular seafood item.

Brunch at Murano is darn tasty too. Not only is it served until late (who in the world likes to get up early on a Sunday just to rush to brunch?), but additionally the baked apple pancake with cinnamon sugar, vanilla crème fraîche, candied walnuts, and then doused in maple syrup ($12) was “Sweet Tooth Scott’s” absolute favorite brunch item in a long, long time. Although The Duo usually prefers its pancakes pure, this creative combination of flavors was a sure winner. The brioche French toast with fresh berries and raspberry sauce ($13) was also astonishing. If you’re not into eggs and breakfast favorites, there are also a large variety of salads and entrées, including croque monsieurs and margarita pizzas that will be sure to satisfy.

As if this wasn’t enough to send you into a diabetic coma, make sure to try the desserts, especially the Meyer lemon pudding with citrus sauce ($8), which was tasty, fresh, and had just the right amount of zing. The granny smith apple tartlet accompanied by marscapone gelato, caramel sauce, and walnut brittle ($9) was also a definite hit.

Speaking of definite hits, make sure to hit up Murano before it becomes so incredibly popular you won’t be able to get in the door. After all we ate, The Dining Duo gained a few hundred pounds and also can’t get in that very same door.

Getting Lost in French Polynesia: Le Taha'a Private Island and Resort

If you cross Gilligan’s island with Robinson Caruso, somewhere in between lays Le Taha’a Private Island and Resort. Actually, it too is on a Motu, not the actual island of Le Taha’a, which means that it has sandy beaches and blue lagoons, with some of the best coral and fish snorkeling in the region, if not the world. The island of Taha’a is often referred to as “The Vanilla Island” as much of the world’s natural vanilla comes from here. It was also the center for fire walking ceremonies. If the main island is quiet, the Private island resort is even quieter. Tom and katie Cruise recently stayed here for ten days in villa #7, which has a peek-a-boo view of the peaks of Bora Bora and was our villa, as well (however, the best view bungalows are #3 – 6).



Le Taha’a Gastronomique Quelle Horror!

Although the food in the Gastronomique restaurant is excessively expensive and close to atrocious (and not even worth reviewing, albeit a beautiful and intimate setting), the breakfast buffet is conversely rumored to be the best in French Polynesia, and we had to agree.

Carafes and teak boats filled with myriad food selections surrounded the plethora of items available for consumption when breakfast calories are of no concern. Served in their “Vanille” restaurant, which is a sensational tree-house looking area on raised pontoons, one can choose a table under the shade of a local palm and consume fabulous French baked goods such as croissants, croissants aux chocolate, muffins and more. The French Toast is fabulous and so are the pancakes. The bacon is imported from New Zealand, and it’s thick and smokey. There’s also all variety of egg dishes, including omelettes, and various salads and concoctions. Add all of that to island fresh yogurts made with all sorts of tropical fruits, pallets of fresh pineapple, mango, papaya, guava, grapefruit, bananas and more, and the only thing missing is a bigger stomach. Le Taha’a Private Island and Resort lacks the sophistication of its newer competitors in the islands, but that said, it is a fabulous place to start your trip, and an even better way to start your day with their breakfast buffet.

TE HONU ITI – MOOREA

Cook’s Bay
Tel 79 29 98
www.restohonuiti.com
referenced in “1000 places to see before you die”
Poele D’or 1974

Straight across the twelve mile Sea of the Moon from Tahiti, at only twenty square miles, this luxuriant and fertile island is dominated by spires and peaks. It is an amazing blend of lagoon, mountain, jungle and sea, and it explodes with natural beauty beyond description. So much so, that it’s been used by many filmmakers as backdrops of their productions, including Mutiny on the Bounty (starring a young Mel Gibson). The dramatic jagged peak of Mouaroa was inspiration for Michener’s Bali Hai”, and we were inspired by a little local restaurant that cooked up a feast to match its island home.

“The Little Turtle” in Polynesian, this small, captivating restaurant on the sea on the enchanting, lush island of Moorea delivers a big bang for the buck. Owned and operated by Chef Roger who immigrated from France 31 years ago, and his native Chinese-Polynesian wife along with their two adult sons, the cuisine is typical French utilizing only the very freshest of ingredients, spices and elements. The breads are all homemade (actually made by our waiter), and are to die for; which is what you actually may do before you leave the restaurant, so don’t plan on rushing through this meal.

Just a short drive from the docks at Cook’s Bay (They will pick you up from there and drop you off, free of charge, and in fact Chef Roger gave us a ride), what looks like a little shack, greets you with an aroma of food smells that is a little bit of heaven. Made from local woods, the establishment has window (well, there’s no glass) tables with views of the lush tropical landscapes and dramatic unspoiled mountains beyond. The dining room is dotted with paintings the Chef made himself and which are of course, for sale; his wife often sets up a table with pearls and other collectibles, many of which are quite beautiful and reasonable (although bargaining is not the course in the islands, we noted that she had no problem with lowering her prices if asked).

After gorging ourselves on the breads, Michael enjoyed the Seafood Soup which was loaded with shrimp, mahi mahi, and other assorted sea foods, and was sensational. He followed this with the mahi mahi smothered in vanilla sauce, and although all the dishes were a bit heavy on the sauces a la typical French fare, it too was sensational. Scott more than thoroughly enjoyed the fresh lobster which was one of the most tender and juiciest lobsters he’s eaten. It too had a creamy sauce of vanilla and other assorted spices, making the dish unforgettable. The lunch was a bit pricey at about $130, but well worth it. Be careful to take a Visa or Mastercard as they do not accept Amex and you may wind up doing dishes, which is what the waiter suggested when all we had was our American Express card. We could have left home without it.

The Polynesian Legend of the Test of the Javelin

There was a princess in the Hawaiian Islands who wanted to marry a valiant hero. The news came to Tahiti and Ta-fa’i, made the journey to Hawaii with his five cousins to seek her hand in marriage, but the king put their courage to the test.

Tafa’i and his cousins armed themselves with javelins. They were to kill the famous pig named “Whole Swallower”, a monster who ate people. The first Tahitian threw his javelin, which bounced off the thick hide of the pig, and then he was immediately swallowed up. The same fate awaited all the others too.

When it was Tafa’i’s turn, he plunged his javelin into the pig’s throat and emerged victorious. He carved up the pig and his cousins came out and returned to life. Tafa’I was recognized unquestionably as the greatest hero Hawaii had ever seen. The king offered his daughter’s hand in marriage, but to his surprise, the Tahitian warrior refused, declaring, “And now farewell, we are returning to our country”.

The Hawaiians understood that they had gravely offended their guests by imposing this test on them. The Tahitians returned home and decided to choose their brides in Tahiti, where there lived young girls of incomparable beauty. They had celebrations of legendary proportions, including fresh pineapples, mangos, papayas, grapefruits, bananas, breadfruit, and of course, roasted pig.



The moral of this legend: Tahiti is indeed close to heaven, and the food they prepare is not far behind. Make your own legends and put Tahiti and her islands on your travel and culinary map.

BORA BORA: THIS IS THE MOTU TO GO TO

French Polynesia: Somewhere in The middle of the South Pacific.


We have just emerged from the satisfying fog of a Balinese style massage in the 30,000 foot edifice with seven treatment rooms that comprises the spa facility at the St. Regis Hotel, Bora Bora. As our therapists smoothed into our skin the coffee and vanilla flavored oils, our minds drifted far, far away from the myriad problems of the fast life in Los Angeles, and settled into the calm induced by the fluttering of the palm frawns overhead. Slowly we remember what it is like to be human again, and this experience accentuated by the most beautiful surroundings on earth.

As we sit on our extensive balcony virtually floating on stilts over the electric turquoise waters of the Bora Bora Lagoon, a tour boat jettisons past while the guide announces that “those bungalows (Royal Over Water Pool Bungalow at 3455 square feet) over there are where the rich people stay”, and everyone starts waving; it’s not true, but we wave back knowing we’re living like them, if only for a few days. It’s nice to live like the super rich, and it certainly couldn’t get much better than this.

Bora Bora is a verdant jewel of an island set within a wide barrier reef. Like many of the islands here, it consists of the eroded cone of an extinct and extensive volcano, which is dominated by the spectacular basaltic mysterious looking mountain peak named Otemanu, which means the sea of the birds. Michener was inspired by Bora Bora, Gauguin painted it, and countless sailors, adventurers, poets and romantics have claimed it as there own piece of paradise. The Dining Duo has been added to that list.

There are 100 bungalows at the St. Regis Bora Bora, and each of them cost over a million dollars to construct. Many of them have their own private swimming pools, and Jacuzzis. You can stay in one of the two 3,455 square foot over water villas with private swimming pools for $5,000 (Bungalow #202 is by far the nicest on the property, with dead on views of Mount Otemanu, as well as the setting sun, and with total privacy from other bungalows; bungalow #103 comes close and is smaller and a fraction of the price), or you can share the same bed where Nicole Kidman slept (13,000 sq. feet) for $15,000 a night. Now that’s where the rich people stay. Other notable celebrities that have visited since the opening last June are Maria Shriver, Ronaldo, Tim Allen, Eva Longoria and Tony Parker, and of course, The Dining Duo.

The Lagoon Restaurant, by Jean Georges:

It’s hard to go wrong when you are supported by the beauty and elegance of the St. Regis Bora Bora; and yet, so much of the dining experiences in French Polynesia indeed seemed to have missed the boat. Once the locals stray from the fabulous array of fresh fruits, including bananas, pineapples, mangos, watermelon, grapefruits and more, the dining experiences become a bit more challenging. Some have attributed this to the difficulty of obtaining supplies in the middle of the Pacific Ocean; others to the Unions and laws protecting the people of French Polynesia. Whatever the reasons, the St. Regis has made a valiant attempt at bringing food sensations to match the natural beauty of the region.

Located at a breathtaking promontory overlooking the giant enchanting peak of Otemanu of 14 square miles of the island of Bora Bora (in fact, the resort is located on a Motu, or the equivalent of a sand bar, created by erosion from the cliffs of the actual island of Bora Bora, and then raised by the creation of corals and accumulation of sand), the restaurant décor is a perfect compliment to the surrounding views. Formed from sleek yellow willow woods from Malaysia and walls of glass, the interior is designed as a smart and hip environment, suggesting that the food is to match as well. The roof of this and all the other buildings are lined with hand woven “Pandanus”, a local reed that gives the appearance of a thatched roof, and immediately sets the tone of tropical paradise.

The real magnificent tables are outside, and unfortunately there are but a few, approximately seven, along with some chairs and tables from which a few couples can also enjoy cocktails ad appetizers. Reserve ahead for one of the outside tables as the world outside is just too magnificent to be indoors, if even only separated by glass. We suggest asking for the table closest to room 101, at the end of the dock (and please be careful of the odd placement of uplights in the middle of the walkways or you may also be experiencing the warm waters).

Jean-George Vongerichten of Paris fame, and 16 other restaurants worldwide, including “V” in Las Vegas, was asked to add his name and influence to the menu here, and it shows. The kitchen itself is run by Chef Romuald Feger, who had previously worked at New York’s Le Cirque. Having experienced mediocrity for several days, it was exciting to be viewing a menu of interesting, albeit limited, choices. We sat on the edge of the South Pacific and sipped on a glass of non-descript Syrah and Bordeaux, both of which were quite nice, although we would have preferred a more extensive selection of wines by the glass (they only offered two reds available).

We both started with appetizers as they all looked enticing. The crispy Shrimp (from just off the coast) wrapped in smokey thick bacon (from New Zealand) was extraordinary and we’re drooling for more as we write this (all menu prices are in French Island Francs, so throughout this article we will quote approximate USD $ rates$35.00 ). Of equal note was the Rice Cracker Crusted Tuna placed in a citrus emulsion ($36.00) that consisted of fresh tuna sashimi coated with a thin layer of crispy rice crackers. The Dining Duo is trying to eliminate Foie Gras from our dining experiences, but being in a French territory, well, c’est la vie. However, although we had great expectations, this dish for about $42 was tres disappointing; the use of fresh lychees and passion fruit gave it a bit of a bizarre and unsettling flavor.

The entrees (be careful, in all French speaking countries, “entrees” are equivalent to appetizers, and not the main course) were equally creative and tasty. That said, there was only one special the first night, and no special offerings the second night, which we found a bit disappointing. With only eight entrees on the menu, it was also disappointing that they did not have the Chili crusted rack of lamb in stock; apparently living on a motu in the middle of the ocean has it’s challenges. What we did eat we found spectacular. Do not miss the grilled Mahi Mahi which is cooked in a white sesame vinaigrette and served with a crunchy salad ($45). The fish was so fresh, Scott thought he saw it swimming to the table (by the way, once you fill up on the wonderful French fresh breads brought to the table, you can toss pieces over the edge and watch the hordes of fish gobble it up while you dine on one of their cousins on the table). Also of note was the charred Chicken. It was baked with spiced freshly picked pineapple, grapefruit and lime, and coated with coconut caramel ($46).
Nothing screams Tropical Island more than a mélange of fresh fruit. And speaking of fresh, while you dine, there’s always an assortment of young fresh waiters and waitresses to make the evening more interesting.

The service on various visits was rather odd; the same waiter who apparently serviced the cherished outside deck was distant and ill-trained, but somewhat pleasant. When we asked for descriptions of certain dishes, his responses were robotic and disinterested, making us wonder if he had memorized a script of sorts, or just couldn’t be bothered. Perhaps it was his training at the Sheraton in Papeete, or maybe it’s just attributed to “island-slow”. Whatever, too much of the overall external experience overshadowed this aspect, but as we all know, service can certainly add tremendously to a meal. (cut and pastes this par to go after the desserts).

Finally, there are the desserts, and you will not be disappointed. Chocolate is always the Duo’s preference and Jean-George delivers with a warm chocolate cake supported by a “boule” of homemade vanilla ice cream. By the way, Le Taha’a, the world’s largest supplier of real vanilla (most of what we get in the States is manufactured vanilla), is just a stone’s throw away, so vanilla ice cream here is a tastes sensation in and of itself. With seven different dessert selections, all of which were yum, we voted the Carmelized Banana Cake with praline crunch and slightly salted caramel ice cream as the second runner up. We would love to describe it in more detail, but we devoured it so quickly that all we remember is that was sensational. All the deserts are approximately $5.

It’s a long way to go for a fabulous meal, but once you do go, you’ll be counting the days until you return; we certainly are.

Keep your eyes open: The St. Regis just opened their new sushi restaurant, and although it was too new for the Dining Duo to review, the space was clean and very attractive, if not a bit too sterile. Michael did try their tuna sampler, which was exquisitely presented and as fresh as sushi could possibly be, a heavenly rapture of tuna and toro. Once they work through their infant stage, this little spot shows great promise for a different dining alternative on the island.


La Villa Mahana
Chef Damien Rinaldi Dovio


Do not go to Bora Bora without putting La Villa Mahana on your map. In fact, put Bora Bora on your travel plans, just so you can experience La Villa Mahana, which was single handedly the best restaurant we experienced in French Polynesia, hands down.

Chef Rinaldi, who hails from Corsica just off the Southern coast of France (think Napolean), cut his chops in France, and then landed the choice position first as Sous-Chef of Los Angleles’s Grande Dame, L’Orangerie, under our friend and gastronomic wizard, Ludo Lefebvre; and then stepping up as main chef once Ludo moved on to Bastide, When Rinaldi decided to move on, he took over Food and Beverage at the Pearl Beach Resort in Bora Bora, and then looked around at the gold mine that existed in this island paradise. It didn’t take long before he found the perfect little home on the coast of Bora Bora and transformed it into a Paul Gauguinesque cottage that accommodates only six tables; and outside, up a few dozen steep steps is a hidden one more table just perfect for lovers. From here, you can look down onto the garden patio, and over a small and private swimming pool that may end up as an after dinner treat for those more adventurous.

In the main cottage, a local artist has painted the ceiling with drawings of Tahitians dancing around you. At each table, there is a framed colorful piece of art, and some beautiful items of local jewelry; all are available for purchase, if you wish. Over the beautifully polished marble floors sits six charming tables, dressed in colorful cloths and set as if a group of friends were coming over. At the back of the room, the 31 year-old chef has his little kitchen from which he alone creates some of the most magnificent taste treats we’ve experienced in these South Pacific islands, let alone elsewhere in the world.

We suggest the tasting menu as it is the best way to experience what Chef can do in that little kitchen of his and without any help (by the way, if the Chef is ill or on vacation, the restaurant will close, so there is never anything less than perfection; otherwise, he keeps his restaurant open seven days a week, and we highly recommend making reservations way in advance from home by using his website at: www.villamahana.com; especially if you want the romantic table up the flight of stairs, then plan on reserving at least six months ahead).

The “Menu Discovery” for 85 Euros (or about $100, a true bargain in this part of the world) is nothing less than extraordinary. We began with the Amuse Bouche (“amuse your mouth’) which consisted of delicate crab on a salad of mesculin greens and sprinkled with some shaved parmesan cheese. Yum. The service was impeccable and the timing between courses also perfect (and something our restaurants in L.A. could learn from). Before we knew it, a little plate of fresh marinated ahi tuna arrived with vanilla oil dribbled on top. Oh my god, what more could we say that would translate onto the page? Following this, we devoured the Mahi Mahi (it’s dolphin fish, not the mammal dolphin, so don’t be scared off by it) baked with curry and coconut cream, the most amazing mashed potatoes we’ve eaten and garnished with a sliced banana on top. The local vanilla and coconut creams accented the entire dish such that the curry spice was a complimentary taste sensation.

As you know by now, Scott doesn’t eat red meat, and Michael had had his share of it at the moment, so we asked Chef (who came to our table himself and described the dishes prior to our ordering) to substitute something for this dish. He graciously accepted doing so, and suggested a lobster risotto, laced with parmesan cheese. The dish was so rich and exceptional that we both devoured it and almost couldn’t finish it, creating our first food oxymoron. We sipped on our bottle of Chateau Pez from St. Estephe 2000, a Bordeaux that complimented everything Chef served up to us. An appropriate ending, if this were not enough, two hot mouton chocolate (comprised of only the finest European chocolate) fondant cakes smothered with fresh homemade vanilla ice cream were delivered to our table for rapid consumption. And just when you thought it was safe to leave the table, the waiter whisked over a plate of petits fours for the road.

Between the atmosphere of this charming maison and the preparation and delivery of extraordinary dishes, we took the water taxi back to our motu across from Bora Bora, barely walked to our overwater bungalow, and fell swiftly asleep to the tune of the water lapping underneath our bed. Divine.


Next week: The Dining Duo visits yet more exotic island destinations and food sensations in French Polynesia. Come back and enjoy the voyage with us.